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93 views in 1 day... Loctite fell off

Nice job! Does LOCTITE PC 9416 do the same job?

Careful locktite… Go woke, go broke.

# Loctite Beyond the Bond

Why are you talking down to us? I don't have a white lab coat either!

There are so many others though the orange loctite, and the green wicking grade one

We use this product at work to glue or veneer stacker belts together at work. It works great. They are a felt belt that we glue and clamp for fifteen min and go right back to production

WOW... it must be good. i but i did not know it will seal off water getting into the fastener... that is now my number one reason to use it on everything...

I have been looking for something for my foot pegs, but my issue is the saddle that mounts to the crash bar won’t lock down. What can I use for this application?

hydrolock has entered the chat

MMA can be very flexible and resiliently strong in mixture. I'm a third-generation shoe repairer as since 1946 we have maintained a separate shoe repair facility from our shoe retail store. I've had to attempt to learn about many synthetic sole materials and still feel a bit miffed at times. Anyway...Renia (A German Corp.) makes an adhesive called Colle de Cologne which by what detective work I can do (they don't won't to tell their proprietary mixture even if they have to state the constituent ingredients) seems to be MMA with a drying agent of Ethylacetate and a thinning agent of Xylene. This glue does very well with most rubber and nylon sole materials, to the point that after 48-hrs the bond may exceed the strength of the actual rubber sole's material. The tricky part is when you try to use it with PU (poly-urethane), TR (thermoplastic rubber), and PVC (poly vinyl chloride plus similar plastics) I almost feel that I haven't "cracked the code" yet on these materials. It is my belief these three materials, in order for a secure adhesive bond to form, must be prepped beyond the usual sanding. Each material likely requires a unique to that material regimen of some kind of chemical preparation before applying adhesive. Of course this depends very much on actually identifying the correct material. Some of the above, when sanded, melt like candle wax...others particle out like fibrous wood. Looks can be deceiving. Then, every once in a while I come upon a shoe/boot sole made of a very durable synthetic rubber (now off patent) originally concocted by The Shell Oil Company. That would be Kraton®rubber. I've never found a glue that won't let go (mostly sooner) from these soles. Whenever we get one of these we use ShoeGoo. Oh, JOY, JOY...the world of bizarre shoe and boot sole materials. I'm convince the only reason tires aren't made from cheap PU is that within a decade earth's population would be negative. PU's fail and fail catastrophically in a normal regime, therefore nothing which is critical to life's safety and well-being should ever include anything made in even the smallest part of PU. I want to start a "I ABHOR PU" association. LOL.

I would like to address a rusty fender with an enclosed area. Do you have a product which can be used to fog the interior of a cavity and covered with a Kroil spray for permanent protection?

*Apply primer if needed.

So if u have a humidity controlled envirement with a fog machine to help with curing and a hydrolic press to clamp your freshly cleaned, perfectly smooth pieces together, your going to have great results.

Good Job man! ... just bought one...

Oh man that threading action was hot...

I never thought of using Loctite Blue to prevent corrosion between fasteners! What a brilliant idea.

Just an observation and personal rant here... (being that this is the manufacture, LOCTITE YT-Channel.) (Also, this video was done 5-years ago. I haven't searched the YT-Channel to see if they did more complete informative videos or updates. *Refer to my disclaimer.) Ok, got it - put some threadlocker into the hole then screw-in the cleaned bolt, (torque to spec) and the threadlocker works as it's intended. Pushing up, covering the (majority) of the bolt threads. The experiment shows how this works perfectly - when the hole that you want to screw into is assisted by gravity - keeping the threadlocker compound in place. *However, in both videos, the experiment (demonstration) FAILS to show the variety of applications where the threaded hole is above; where the bolt has to be inserted from below. Where the bolt hole isn't assisted by gravity to hold in the threadlocker liquid compound. Where if you squirted in some threadlocker compound it would quickly drip out. I think that this is the greatest percentage of the applications for most of us. The other more common application might be that you are using a pass thru bolt with a nut. In a majority of these specific applications - *I believe the recommendation would be to put *some threadlocker on the inside of the nut - ensuring that you roll the nut around, allowing the threadlocker compound to cover as much of the treads as possible. Then also put some threadlocker compound on the portions of the bolt where the nut-treads will make contact with the bolt. Also, working the threadlocker compound around the bolt threads. (As much as possible. Usually with a clean finger.) In these applications, whenever the "working space" and bolt length allows - the threadlocker compound should be (*or could be?) assisted by some type of mechanical locking device. Such as a lock-washer or star-washer or similar mechanical device. (Other than locking the nut/bolt in place by spot-welding them. Which may be excessive, unsafe or unfeasible.) {{*Disclaimer: My comments are solely to express my dis-satifaction (a rant) with the Mfg.'s incomplete informative YT-Video. My comments are not intended to instruct anyone as to how they should use a threadlocker or other. I'm not telling you how to do anything.}}

If you apply to the female threaded section you will achieve much better distribution of Loctite than applying to the male part 🤓

Good job. Kudos to the media staff.

I need a liquid gasket for a plastic valve cover for my car. These usually warp when you remove them. I was thinking of LOCTITE SI 5990 as a sealant. Can this sealant compensate for unevenness?

This stuff is so easy to use I was blown away

Severe Torsional Test... thats my new band name...... TRADEMARKED ! ! ! !

Exactly what I was looking for. Thanks 😊👍There is a video on the project farm channel that "Likers" of this video might find useful.

I'm concerned about the tolerance on those threads - a tight thread won't let it push up through the threads, and you'll hydraulic the hole causing a false torque result or potentially cracking the parent material of the hole..?

I won't just put anything in my crack, I only put loctite in my crack 😂

Can it withstand 4,000F? Also, is it a good conductor of heat?

Hi, Do you have other videos like this?

Interesting. 🤔 slow cure time? Regardless, I'm gluing a, (mudded-IN) Bathtub Soap Dish to the grout, Then caulking the edge with silicone. "It better hold!🤬

Wholesale: $739.9200 / package of 12 Online Price: $591.9600 / package of 12 Unit Price: $49.3300 / each

until you need to get that bolt off.

Diferencias del 401, 495 y 460

I know there is a maximum thread size specified in your specifications, but why? Can it still be applied safely applied? Or do the gaps become to large?

If I use a low strength loctite like 222 instead of silver or copper anti-seize would it affect a fasteners torque specification.

What is up with Phil? Why is he "Over the Top" with "wow" awesome"? It takes away from the data. Please remake this video without Phil.

I dont understand why doesn't the color of the liquid match the bottle.

Nice job

Could it work with powders?

This demonstration was really good

Can you use Red Loctite 243 on brass nuts & bolts ??? 😮

Aha 😂

Tes

Kerala😌